Most surfers started surfing because it is so much fun. Do you remember the first time you experienced the feeling of gliding over a wave? Surfing is like a drug, try it once and that is it, you are hooked, you are now an official surf addict. From then on, you will want to go back again and again in search of that rush of joy, constantly chasing the thrill of the ride. Over time, you develop a real bond with the ocean, and when you are away from it, you might feel like something is missing, sometimes slight but sometimes intense.
Here is the good news : surfing is probably the only addiction in the world that has positive consequences, especially for your health. While we often focus on physical health, mental health is increasingly getting the spotlight, and rightly so because it is just as important. Guess what? Surfing is a double win for both your physical and mental well-being. Health is often considered the greatest treasure, so why not enhance it with surfing? Stick with us as we dive into the amazing health benefits of surfing and discover how you can blend fun and wellness on the waves.
What is Surf Therapy?
Before diving into the myriad health benefits of surfing, it is imperative that we introduce you to surf therapy. According to the International Surf Therapy Organization (ISTO), surf therapy is “a scientifically proven method that combines surfing and structured activities to promote psychological, physical and psychosocial well-being”.
In simple terms, surf therapy is like a magic medicine. Its impressive benefits—both physical and mental—will become clear as we explore them in this article. So, grab a notepad and pen, because the insights you are about to gain will come in handy. Especially when you need to explain to your family why you spend so much time riding those waves…
Physical Health Benefits
First off, spending time in seawater is great for your immune system. Just being outdoors and in nature gives your defenses a boost against illnesses. You know what they say: one wave a day keeps the doctor away (or something like that). The mineral-rich seawater can also strengthen your skin barrier and help with skin conditions like eczema or psoriasis. Who knew that a doctor might actually prescribe a beach swim as part of your treatment?
Plus, some experts believe that surfing can be beneficial to help with chronic illnesses, as Nolwenn shares in this France Info article (link to article).
Secondly, seawater has some pretty impressive therapeutic benefits that many physiotherapists recommend. It provides natural resistance, making it ideal for rehabilitating injuries like weak knees. This means you get a thorough, gentle, and deep muscle workout that is perfect for effective recovery. Plus, walking in the ocean is way more enjoyable than slogging through a pool, right?
Speaking of the environment, it also provides intense sensory stimulation. Sea air, charged with negative ions, has a calming and revitalizing effect on the whole body. Studies show that being near water helps lower stress hormones like cortisol. And let’s not forget exposure to the sun, which boosts our vitamin D levels, essential for bone health, the immune system and mood regulation. Basically, each session is like a giant multivitamin.
As for surfing in itself, as a physical activity, is hard to beat. It is a top-notch sport for boosting cardiovascular health and endurance thanks to its varied intensities. You start with paddling, which gets your heart rate up, then enjoy a bit of a rest behind the lineup as you wait for the next wave. Once you catch that perfect wave, adrenaline kicks in and your heart rate spikes again.
But the benefits do not stop there. Surfing engages a wide range of muscles: arms, back, abs, and legs—providing a full-body workout. Who needs the gym when you have got a board and a wild ocean? Plus, it helps improve balance, coordination, and flexibility, which can come in handy in everyday life and other sports. Seriously, reaching for that remote control behind the couch has never been easier!
Mental Health Benefits
Surfing is a powerful way to connect with nature, and it significantly boosts your well-being. Picture this: you, your board, and the endless expanse of the ocean. There is nothing like it to help you refocus and escape the daily grind. What is more, you better stay focused on one thing during your take-off, because any distraction could lead to a wipeout, helping you to clear your mind of everything else in your life at that very moment.
Indeed, surfing offers a unique perspective on life’s problems. As Gabriel Medina puts it “It doesn’t matter how big the problem is, it feels like everything is under control when you are up there” (link to Medina’s video). Essentially, the ocean acts like that super Zen friend who is always telling you, “Chill out, it is all going to be okay.”
Surfing is great for boosting self-esteem and confidence. Mastering the art of riding waves can really give you a confidence boost. Take Ewe Wong, a young American professional surfer, she explains in the series Surf Girls Hawai’i that while she might look away if she comes across people her age on the streets, she will paddle proudly past them in the water. Because she knows her abilities, she knows what she is capable of. Over time, we come to apply this to our daily lives.
Surfing is a lifestyle that brings together a large community. As you surf, you meet people in and out of the water, you make friends and start traveling to find the best waves, and soon, before you know it, your whole world revolves around surfing. You even find yourself planning your vacations around the spots you want to discover. Goodbye city-hopping and hello beach trips!
And let’s face it, cutting down on screen time by surfing is a huge bonus. Bye-bye energy-sapping social networks, hello creativity and awareness. Every surf session is a great moment of meditation, a well-deserved break for your mind.
Surfing is increasingly recognized as an excellent remedy for trauma. It helps reduce stress, anxiety and depression. In fact, it is so effective that surfing is being used as a form of therapy. Surf therapy is a bit like going to see a therapist, but in a bathing suit and having fun. A scientifically proven method that combines surfing and structured activities to promote psychological, physical and psychosocial well-being. Yes, you read that right, surfing can literally help you feel better in mind and body.
In conclusion, surfing is much more than a hobby, it is a real ally for your mental health. Whether you are a beginner or a pro, there are no limits to the benefits this activity can bring. So, after reading this article, grab your board, dive into the ocean and let the waves transform your life. But first, let’s introduce you to some of the initiatives and professional surfers who are fighting for this cause.
Some surf therapy initiatives
Surf therapy is like a magic potion for the mind, and several initiatives around the world are proving that waves can truly transform lives.
In Peru, WAVES Lobitos works wonders with a slightly different approach to surfing. Surf therapy instructor Henry Espinoza started surfing at the age of 13 without knowing how to swim, so it took him a while to get comfortable in the water. Today, he helps his students, children and adults to focus on the present moment, to understand and manage their emotions while surfing waves. Henry works on emotional management and self-confidence, helping participants to appreciate each wave as a victory.
In France, the Association Nationale Surf Santé has taken the step of including surfing in medical prescriptions. Yes, you read that right, surfing can now be a medical prescription! Thanks to Jérémy Flores, professional surfer and sponsor of the association, surfing is now recognized as an effective therapy. It is as if, instead of a pill for stress, you were given a pass for the waves. Who would have thought that the best remedy for the blues was to be shaken by the waves? It just goes to show that surfing is not just a passion, but also a real remedy for mental health.
In South Africa, Waves for Change, a local NGO, is transforming the mental health of young people by teaching them to surf. The legendary west coast of South Africa boasts some of the world’s best surfing spots. This organization operates within the most disadvantaged communities to combat the pervasive violence in the slums. By harnessing the healing power of surfing, Waves for Change helps thousands of young people break free from the vicious cycle of gang warfare. To learn more about their incredible work, check out these videos:
- Using Surfing To Improve Mental Health in South Africa
- Waves for Change – Changing Lives, One Wave at a Time
In Australia, the Waves of Wellness foundation is a charity dedicated to mental health, transforming lives through innovative programs built on three pillars of well-being: social inclusion, connection to nature, and engagement in meaningful activities. These pillars are supported by extensive research into mental health and recovery. One of their standout programs helps young men enhance their mental and physical fitness through a six-week wellness course focused on learning to surf. This program equips them with the skills they need to tackle everyday challenges. For more details, watch this video.
Professional Surfers and the Fight for Mental Health
Despite their image as daredevils of the waves, professional surfers face enormous pressure that can seriously impact their mental health. Depression and anxiety are common in the surfing world, where the relentless quest for perfection and intense competition are constant. This reality is true for all top-level athletes. Thankfully, more and more athletes are speaking out about these challenges. With their influential platforms and fame, they are breaking down taboos and opening up a much-needed conversation about mental health.
Jeremy Flores, a French professional surfer, is a prime example of this struggle. Having battled depression himself, Jeremy now uses his voice to raise awareness and support for this important cause. In the documentary STRoNG, he shares his personal journey, revealing that even the greatest athletes are not immune to mental health issues.
Holly Beck, former American professional surfer, has turned her passion for surfing into a healing tool. After a competitive career, she founded Surf With Amigas retreats in Central America, connecting women from all over the world. With the ocean as her personal sanctuary, Holly combined her coaching experience with a holistic coaching program. Her unique approach combines surfing and therapy to help women improve their mental well-being while perfecting their surfing skills. It is as if the waves become not only challenges to conquer, but allies on the journey to better mental health. In this video, she explains her journey.
These surfers do not just dominate the waves; they fight to ensure that their story inspires and helps others find their own path to recovery. Their efforts show that waves are not just a playground for sportspeople, but also a powerful tool for tackling and overcoming mental challenges. So, the next time you find yourself facing the ocean, remember that these waves also carry the weight of the resilience and courage of those who face them.
